During the Renaissance, fashion changed over the
years just as it does today. Like the distinct difference we see in clothes
today versus the previous centuries, clothes between the 14th to the
17th century in England changed many, many times. Clothes were used
as a way of expressing many things. They showed wealth, personality,
personal/familial history, and status. If one looks at portraits from all those
years ago, it is simple enough to pick out symbols that may have exemplified
any of the aforementioned ideas. For example, monarchs and their children would
dress well to show that they are royalty. When looking at Princess Elizabeth’s
(the future Queen Elizabeth I), one sees her wearing a red dress with a square
collar cut and beautiful pearls that dive into the neckline. Her cone skirts
front even has a beautiful gold detail. Sure, the beauty and sophistication of
the portrait may make one think it is obvious that she is a monarch. Yet there
are different reasons why it would be obvious if someone from that century
looked at the portrait. The color of the red itself was incredibly expensive,
there for only someone of high rank and birth would be able to wear a dress of
that color. As the daughter of Henry VIII, Elizabeth could have a dress in red.
The embroidered gold part of the skirt also shows her status as a royal,
because it cost a good amount to have gold detailing as well. On a different
note from status, there was an interesting comment in the audio guide about how
the pearls diving into the neckline of the thirteen year old princess were
slightly provocative but also created a sense of power in her that would be
very evident when she took the throne.
There were also many people who would dress outside
their station, something that initiated the Sumptuary laws. Not that they were
strictly adhered to, but the laws were to prevent everyone from dressing exactly
the same as those of high birth and nobility had a right to be differentiated
from milkmaids and prostitutes. For example, the color purple was only for the
royalty and their families to wear. Anyone beneath that station should not wear
purple or else risk being fined if tattled on. In the portrait of William Parr,
which is really a sketch as colors are not in it much, was apparently wearing
purple for the drawing. He should not have been as he was not actually of the
royal bloodline. Yet, as he had royal standing in Henry VIII’s court as Henry’s
wife’s brother, it was allowed.
Most people did not listen to these laws or the
religious “laws” against cross-dressing. Cross-dressing was something the
religious leaders were strongly against. First of all, women dressing as men
were dressing of a higher status than they even had. Men who dressed like women
were just making a mockery of themselves by being too feminine. Therefore, it
was not to be done. And yet it was done anyway. For one, men dresses as women
on stage frequently as female roles were typically played by males. There were
clergy firmly against it, as Cressy mentions, but they were not about they were
not about to put a woman on the stage now were they? The punishments for being
caught were not all that severe either in most cases. Usually, a fine of some
sort. And since people did not regulate other genders wearing clothes or people
wearing clothes outside their status, things went on without much problems
despite how disturbing some people found it. It is similar to today in a way.
Even if it disturbs someone, they typically do not say anything unless it is to
an official, and most people don’t take it that far.
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